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recovered the plate where the wedges are stamped pot. Extract the iron blocks for the polish with sandpaper and fine grained red paint. We hit the skids on the boat and distributed as shown in the picture.

We set glue the two remaining oars, and distribute them on the boat as shown in the picture, on both sides of the chocks of the boat.

recovered the boat we built in the previous phase. Apply glue to the top section of the blocks and set the pot over them, guiding the bow toward the bow of the boat.

brown thread, 0.50 mm in diameter and four pulley, remember that the pulley block is the small piece of wood with two holes, we were going to build the boat's mooring lines. Cut two pieces of wire about 100 mm long, tying a pulley block at each end of the wire, as shown in the picture.

We hit one of the threads pulley knotted on the boat, oriented and centered as shown in the photograph. The two pulley end of the wire must match vertically with the pulley that is fixed to the bottom of the boat chocks.

Paste the other thread on the stern of the boat, centered as shown in the photograph.

Cut a piece of raw thread diameter of 0.15 mm to about 130 mm in length. We make a knot in one end, and the other applied some glue and make it roll between your fingers to get a sparkling effect. Using pliers, insert the tip of a needle thread through the holes in one of the pulley located on top of the pot. The line tight until the knot touches the hole. We pass the thread through the hole on the same side of the pulley block is fixed on the boat, as shown in the picture.

We

up the thread and introduce through the hole in the pulley block is freed up. We tighten the thread and go through the hole left open the pulley block below. We tighten the entire length of knotted thread and then over the upper pulley block. Apply a little glue on the knot and cut the excess thread. Perform these same operations in the other three pulley fixing the boat and the boat to the deck.

This will be the appearance of the boat with the boat and the boat shoe in place. Reserve remaining materials for use in subsequent assembly stages.

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É This is the way I found to make a curtain using two strips crochet, crochet clear. I placed horizontally, with worms locked the windows and collected, the highest of them, with two strips arisen I deem to couch fabric that bedroom. In sides used it as beige fabric shade to which I applied to other fabric scraps left over from the bedroom.

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Placement of the second boat round the caravel, a large ocean ship Construction of the second boat

Some configurations of rigging of the ships, with different combinations of square and lateen sails .

The main feature that differentiated the previous ships of the ships sails were Latino, early XV century, as a rule, was hoisted in all the clubs, whatever their number, that allowed them to win easily upwind. With winds of stern drives used treos long run, square candles are specially designed to navigate in conditions of great difficulty, and also were called fortune candles. Yet, paradoxically, the lateen not respond well to cruising, so the ships that were engaged in this kind of adaptations were mixed with the square sail, the more effective in the harsh ocean conditions.

The Portuguese were the first to realize the dangers of rigging the ships Latino when they sailed through with hard winds and rough sea, this was due to instability of the vast entena and its hard to maneuver. To solve this problem, turned the lateen sail on the foremast square, resulting in the so-called round caravel. The square sail was better distributed to the surface along the lateen yard of his antenna, and for this reason was much more manageable. Two famous examples of such conversions occurred in La Pinta and La Niña , the ships of Columbus' first voyage, the first available lateen and became round or square on the foremast and mainmast before out of Palos, and the second underwent the same transformation in the Canaries.

The Portuguese caravels of the first Age of Discovery were entirely Latino, reached between 50 and 60 tons displacement, measured from 20 to 25 meters in length and had two or three masts without bowsprit and foremast, the mainmast was located approximately in the middle of town, and bore a stepdaughter whose length equal the length reached. The round ships, which is also called navy ships of Spain, reached much larger, especially in Portugal, where 180 tons came despite four poles and trees, always with the round sails on the foremast only. To meet the growing needs of accommodation and stowage of cargo, a castle appeared small size makes them less forward, however, able to navigate upwind due to increased depression.

With experience in ocean travel, round the ships reached high levels of refinement. The most representative of this group with the English Nuestra Señora de Atocha and Our Lady of Good Success , both built in Lisbon in the fifteenth century. Did not exceed 80 tons and carrying two guns on each side, the crew was 40 men and armament consisted of four guns and four masons (a primitive fire hydrants that shot stones of various sizes). The rig had four sticks and candles were Latin except in the ratchet, carrying square sails.

There is a written record of this type of ships, conducted by the explorers brothers Bartolomé and Gonzalo Garcia de Nodal, who in September 1618, Lisbon participated in an exploratory trip to Tierra del Fuego. The chroniclers praised how to navigate and the speed of these boats, which at that time gave way to the galleon, which became the king of the ocean a century later. In Spain retains a final document in 1639, on a caravel. In Portugal, his life was longer, and the last news of them appeared in the Gazette of Lisbon from June 11, 1738, it describes a caravel washed up on the beach in Esmoriz pursued by privateers.

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Knightsbridge Limited Edition Collection

CROCHET CURTAIN FABRIC FITTED WITH ROOST BOX CROCHET

E n the first case, hiding a former Swedish cabinet, to match the decor Acebuche rustic the fabric on, on it the chicken wire and trim the copper pins, already mentioned in adorning the shelves of the pantry.

Notice how the handles of silverware we replace legacy.

In the second case, in a locker room of the Olive, whose doors were badly damaged, being of lower quality than the rest of the wood furniture. We replace the chicken wire, nailing the interior and it tipped with worms placed a white cloth. We added a few shooters white and a small timber for sealing rotating on a screw.

Finally cabinets MY KITCHEN Details, , click if you want to see more photos

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This picture shows in detail the numbering of the pieces in the plate No. 1, we will identify the cut once iron.

To avoid confusion when assembling the frames of the boat, copy numbers of the previous image on the plate No. 1, with the help of a pencil.

Extract the pieces in the plate with the help of the cutter and carefully, they are very small and delicate parts.

With limatón or a piece of sandpaper, carefully go over the edges of the removed parts to eliminate grain raise.

Following the numerical order of the pieces, put no glue, frames B2, B3 and B4 on the false keel boat, part B1.

continue placing the frames on the false keel, respecting numerical order and not to be stuck yet, as shown in the picture.

Once assembled all frames on the false keel, placed Part B14, which serve to hold the assembly. As we can see, the B14 takes a lace piece to locate the projections fore and aft of the false keel, and the ends of the B7, the central frame and wider.

We put the set in the same position as shown in the photograph. Quick drying glue applied in the joint areas between the ribs and the false keel, also join the ends of the ribs with the part B14. Make sure that the pagamento not exceed the attachment point, for if eto occurs, the dye that apply to the whole structure would not be set in the stained area by the adhesive.

apply glue and set a piece B16 on each side of the bow of the false keel, as shown in the picture. Both pieces should be flush with the frame B2.

When the glue has dried, walnut stain applied to all frames and the false keel. For this operation, we can use any dye stain or wood into the water.

With a fine sanding block or a half-round limatón, polish the piece from the bow aft to bevel the edges of the frame.

This picture we can see the difference between the side that we sanded and it is intact.

We took a sheet of 1 x 3 mm and laying it on the ribs, as shown in the photograph, we see that sit on them properly.

Now, we sand from the stern toward the bow of the boat's base to get a good settlement of the liner. For curved and inaccessible areas, we use a half round limatón.

also found in this area of \u200b\u200bthe plates can be correctly seated. Remember that we sanded both sides of the pot equally.

After sanding the skeleton, we can begin to put the backing plates. The areas closest to the base of the frames have a brand that will serve as a starting point for placing the first strip of backing. It is advisable to sand and wet the sheets before putting them on the frames, to give elasticity and prevent breakage. Use fast-drying glue and set the first plate.

Cut leftover plate flush with the false keel fore and the last frame. We set another plate on the other side Hull at the same height as the first.

continue placing the sheets from the false keel and moving the first plate in place. As we move forward, you'll see that we must adjust the lengths and shapes of the plates for vompletar siding.

To close the small spaces that are left between the sheets, wedges and tuna we prepare as we did in the lining of the vessel.

sheathed mirror boat and then cut the excess of the plates, as shown in the picture.

We polish with sandpaper fine grain outside the boat. The wood must be smooth and without gaps between the sheets.

With a handsaw, cut the ribs that connect the pot to the base, following the cut marks that incorporate parts.

put the boat in a horizontal position and with the help of a block sander or a file, we match the sides of the boat, which will facilitate the settlement of the top of the gift.

sapelli We take two strips of 2 x 2 mm and sand it by all sides. The submerged in water for a while to gain elasticity, then, remove from water and dry it with a cloth. Apply glue and set one of the ribbons on the outside of the boat about 3 mm of the profile of the plate, as shown in the picture. The bar must extend from bow to stern, cut leftover strip flush with the bow and stern of the boat, place another strip on the other side.

With the boat in the position shown in the photograph and with the help of the cutter, cut the ends of the ribs until they go back 3 mm. This operation must be done very carefully and patiently not to damage the metal of the pot.

With strips of 2 x 3 mm assemble African walnut planking the bottom of the boat, as shown in the picture. Cut and adjust the slats required to do so.

recovered some African walnut strips of 2 x 5 mm left over from previous work to assemble the benches of the boat. The look at the positions shown in the picture. Inking the edges of the frames that are visible.

assembly at this stage of the boat painted or varnished

Once painted, will stick the wheel in the front of the boat in the position shown in the picture.

Following the stem, glue the piece needed African walnut strip of 2 x 3 mm to exceed the stern of the boat. Cut the remaining strip of mirror single boat, following the same inclination.

We found that gift is held properly on the boat and painted it black.

To set the gunwale, apply glue to the surfaces and center the piece on the boat. Pressed with fingers gunwale to suit the curve describing the boat. If necessary, reinforce the bonding glue inside the boat.

apply glue and set the rudder at the stern of the boat, so it is centered and flush with the bottom of the pot. Also paste the tiller in the position shown in the picture.

With ramin strips of 2 x 5 mm and eyebolts leftovers from previous jobs, prepare their clubs for rowing, as we did in the boat.

The painted black and placed the cancer and cut it in half with cutting pliers, this is the appearance of the finished boat.

Now we take the oars and blades painted light brown and darker brown canes.

We hit two oars in the boat, with the blades oriented towards the stern, and it is this aspect of the boat with the oars and place.

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